Island Peak, the name of this mountain was given in 1953 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.
Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn't look too impressive, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close inspection it reveals itself to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.
Island Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as a training exercise in preparation for Mount Everest. Tenzing Norgay was one of the members of this first ascent team. Island Peak is one of the most popular trekking peaks as it requires nominal mountaineering experience, especially when supported by a Nepalese climbing guide.
Island Peak - Climbing Route
To climb Island peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 m (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,300 m (17,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, adequate water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp. Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be setup by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 m (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometres away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above the summit.
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the Hotel.
Day 02 Sight seeing in Kathmandu Valley.
Day 03 Fly to lukla(2840m). Trek to Manjo(2840m). Overnight in Hotel.
Day 04 Trek to Namche Bazar(3440m).
Day 05 Acclimitization in Namche Bazar. Visit some Sherpa Villages.
Day 06 Trek to Tengbuche(3860m). Overnight in Hotel.
Day 07 Trek to Pheruche(4240m). Overnight in Hotel.
Day 08 Trek to Chukkum Valley(4730m). And proceed trek upto Chukum Ri. Back to Hotel.
Day 09 Trek to Island Peak Base camp(4970m). Overnight in Tent.
Day 10 Acclimitization and Climbing Practice. Overnight in Tent.
Day 11 Trek to High Camp. Overnight in Tent.
Day 12 Climb to Summit and back to base camp.
Day 13 Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 14 Trek back to Deboche(3820m).
Day 15 Trek back to Khumzung(3780m).
Day 16 Trek Back to Phagding(2610m).
Day 17 Trek Back to Lukla.
Day 18 Fly back to Kathmandu.
01. All airport transfers by private non-ac car.
02. Mera Peak climbing permit.
03. National Park/Trekking permit.
04. Roundtrip airfare (Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu).
05. Fully catered camping package such as sleeping/dining/kitchen/toilet tents, sleeping mattresses, all meals prepared by our cook, all kitchen equipments, service of trekking/climbing guide, cook, assistants, and porters.
06. Food, salary (allowance), insurance for guide, cook, porters and their transportation / airfares.
07. Sleeping bag and down jacket, if necessary.
08. First-aid kit bag.
09. High altitude professional climbing guide and his special allowance.
10. All taxes and service charges.
11. Accommodation in Kathmandu based on five stars. (Two night)
Cost doesn't Includes:
01. Insurance of any kind.
02. Personal equipments
03. Rescue operation charge.
04. Expenses of personal nature such as beverages, communication, laundry, tipping